updated 3/8/08
This page is just to show the basics of what I had to do to install the 1998 Cobra engine onto my 1968 Mustang. I did not find much information on the internet covering the specifics of installing a modular engine in a non EFI car so I thought I would share my information. Hope you enjoy!
Removed the 289cid engine.
I had to modify the Heidts cross member.
Check to see if engine will clear the hood.
I centered the shifter stub in the original shifter cut out.
I centered the engine with the center line on the frame.
I had to replace the original Cobra oil cooler with one from a Lincoln with 4.6L.
I cut the original engine mounting pads off the 1998 Mustang and purchased the other part from Heidts that bolts to the cross member. Then using cardboard I made templates to connect the two. Spot welded in place then removed to weld and paint. I'm no engineer but I think I'm solid here.
Mounting the T-
This is how I ran the computer wires into the passenger compartment. Note: Heater hoses also. I cut the rubber grummet hole out of the original car so I would not have to duplicate it. After finding a good pass through point I cut a hole, welded, and sealed around the welds. I also passed the heater hoses through hear because the routing to the engine would be best.
I made a box with access panel to route the computer wires and heater hoses into the engine compartment. I cut a hole into the engine compartment and radius so no chaffing of wires and hoses. once complete I sealed the cover and sprayed undercoating on it.
Fuel lines and fuel pump. I know almost nothing on programming an EFI car so my thought process is to keep everything factory and no programming would be needed (cross my fingers). I cut the flange from the original fuel tank, found the best location for it on the 1968 tank and using a round template I cut a hole (to late to turn back now). I wanted to retain my 1968 fuel sending unit and have the Cobra fuel pump pickup as low as possible.
The welds look bad but I tested them with 4 psi and soapy water for air bubbles. Yes they are ugly but they hold. The supply and return lines are sealed to the trunk floor using rubber plugs. I got a 1968 Mustang kit form a Mustang dealer for this install. I basically punched a hole in the plug, used a tapered cone to slide it over the fuel line fitting. It tight against the fuel line and seals to the trunk floor. I used the original fuel filter bracket also. I used stainless steel lines (purchased from Summitracing ) to connect the fuel pump and filter to the engine. I used Mastercool Ins. (71741) flaring tool to make the push on fittings on the ends of the stainless steel pipe.
I used the Total Control Products sub frame connectors along with the torque arm. This is a love hate relation. I really love the design because it very ridged but sucks making everything under the car work around it. I have already installed on of these kits in my brothers 1967 Mustang (427 Tunnel Port) and the drive shaft loop was to high with it adjusted all the way down. I think they have their template upside down when they weld it at the factory. This one was the same but by lowering the front of it I was able to use it as is.
As you can see I had to make many modifications to the Bolt in Support (X brace). I know it was not made for the 1968 Mustang with a 4.6L engine but I think they should revisit the drive shaft loop height and maybe shift the front brace back and down more to help with exhaust pipes.
With the above modifications I was able to retain my exhaust cross over and run 2.5" pipe from front to back. If you go this route GOOD LUCK! This was the hardest thing to do by far....
Below you see that I have changed the mufflers to Flow Master Mufflers 50 series Delta Flow .
You can see I had to cut the corners off so the mufflers would not hit the X brace. I originally ran my MagnaFlow mufflers with no cats and it had a glass pack sound to it, I do not like that. I installed Flow Master Mufflers 50 series Delta Flow and it was a little worst. So I installed two of the original Cobra cats and now it's a deep and quite sound inside the car.
This is what I made to hold the computer behind the glove box and in front of the Vintage Air A/C.
Picture below you can see the www.fordracingparts.com TACH DRIVER M-
I had to modify the electrical speedometer pickup (VSS) to drive my factory mechanical speedometer. Basically remove the white plastic plug, order a cable with the correct ford ends and length cable and your good. I purchased mine from a local shop but have also found one with Ron Morris Performance.
I had to convert my mechanical clutch to a cable clutch. I used one I got from Ron Morris Performance . I really like his design except the "L" bracket bolted to the clutch peddle. The angle that the pressure is applied is not the way the bearing was designed. I feel that it would fail in time. That's why I added another bearing to support his. I need to take more pictures but this is what's on the camera right now.
I used TwEECer to allow me to make changes to the Ford EEC-
Using CalEdit software I was able to use my laptop to edit parameters on the TwEECer
chip that plugs into the J3 port of the Ford EEC-
First I had to disable the PATS so the engine would start.
I have disabled other things also. This first picture is of the emissions that came with the 1998 Cobra. The next picture shows what was disabled and now does not show up.
All files below are from BinaryEditor.
Here is a link to the factory AOL3 bin file.
Here is a link to my current file.
Current setup:
1998 4.6L Cobra and T45 transmission with factory wiring harness.
No performance upgrades to engine other than K&N filter and only two catalytic converters instead of four.
3.50:1 rear end. Ford 9 inch. (Factory Cobra was 3.27:1)
235/55-
18 tooth speedometer gear. (Factory Cobra was 19 tooth)
Disable PATS
Disable Secondary air
Disabled Fuel system-
I will try and update when I get time for for now I’m very happy with what I have.
With my current setup I get around 21 mpg on the highway.
It has taken me awhile to get were I am and hope this will help others. The best thing to do is compare my current bin file with the factory AOL3 and you can see what I have done.
Miscellaneous pdf files:
