Hello and thank you for looking at my brothers 1967 Mustang with a 427 SOHC. We are
not certified mechanics but enjoy working with our hands and trying new things. We
are happy to share what we have done and hope to inspire you to finish your current
projects or to help your buddy finish theirs.
We had installed a 427 Tunnel Port engine several years ago and now Terry has all
the parts to assemble the SOHC 427 we now need to make room for those HEMI heads!
I had installed a Heidts Mustang II front suspension several years back and had
some complaints so we decided to try TCI’s Mustang II front suspension because I
felt that they had addressed some of the complaints I had with Heidts like ball joint
dust boots would expose the ball at different angles and outer wheel bearing turning
on the spindle (NOTE: The bearing ended up being the disk brake rotor, not Heidts
fault.) We purchased the TCI kit from Tim’s Hot Rods, very nice guy and a wealth
So far I’m very happy with our choice with TCI so far.
The engine is still being built so this gives us time to make other changes.
Below we show adding a sump to the gas tank.
We used an Edelbrock fuel pump and secured it to brackets that was welded to the
gas tank. We made to the sump from scrap metal and purchased a AN-8 bung. We have
8-AN flex hose supplying the fuel pump and ½ aluminum tubing from the fuel pump to
the engine compartment with a filter in between.
We have modified the factory Automatic shifter so it would stop on up shifts to 2nd
and 3rd gears while racing.
Basically what we did was to weld a stop post for 2nd gear on the shifters original
guide plate. For 3rd we made a top guide plate with one post that when the shifter
button was fully pressed it would stop the shifter on 3rd gear then all you would
have to do is release the button and enjoy the ride.
So 1st to 2nd all you do is push the shifter forward and it will stop on its own,
now fully press the shifter button and push the shifter forward and it will stop
on 3rd gear, now release and your done. We did this so the interior of the car looked
some what factory and the floorboard would not be cut up due to aftermarket ratchet
Here is a gauge pod we made to move the tach off the steering column and the shift
light and other gauges up for easy viewing. We made a mold of the shape we wanted
and then heated some plastic and vacuum it over the mold. You can search vacuum mold
on the internet to get more information.
Here is some pictures of the engine close to being finished. Hope to have engine
on the test stand
The the older gentleman is Earl Wade from Porter, TX. He build the engine for Terry.
Earl has worked on the SOHC 427 since the early 60’s and has a lot of experience
10/24 and 10/25/09 the engine was ran on the test stand. 11/1 and 12/2/09 we installed
the engine and transmission. This was a lot of work because we ended up lowering
the suspension 2 inches to clear the power steering and get the engine at the factory
angle, FE engine. Well now I have headers, power steering brackets, and more to make
before we can start up the engine.
Here are some pictures of the power steering pump, headers I made, and etc. This
is the first set of headers I have ever made so don’t look to hard at the welds OK!
My goal was to make them easy to remove, easy access to the starter, and able to
remove the transmission with out removing the headers and I think I have done it.
I know the performance will suffer but this is not a race car either. They are a
tri Y design, this is why I had to connect cy lenders 5 to 7 and 6 to 8. Cylinders
7 and 8 fire one after another and can’t feed into the same Y.
I purchased a blank bracket when I purchased the power steering pump from KRC. With
this it was easy to make a mounting bracket for the power steering pump to the timing
I used to 11” fans in front of the radiator as pushers because I only has about an
inch between the radiator and the water pump and just a little more between the power
steering pump. So far this is keeping it cool (190 degrees) but it’s around 70 degrees
outside so I will have to wait for summer to see how this works.
Well, it has taken me 2 and a half weeks to get to this point and three should finish
it up. I have worked on it ever day and am ready to drive it before it’s picked
up by my brother. It has a nice sounding exhaust, very deep.
12/4/09 Lowered the car to stock height and added Centerline wheels to the rear
with Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Tires 255/60-15 in hope to add more weight
to the rear and get some traction.
I removed the C5AF-9510-BU /BT (65 427 HiPerf Ford) carburetors because they had
no power valves and could not adjust them for street. Remove these carburetors from
the Tunnel port engine and made some adjustments and it runs great (Holley list 3301
C5AF-9510-BC/BD). I did replace the 8.5 power valve to 3.5 because this engine has
a lower vacuum than the tunnel port. I’m sure someone else could have made the others
work but carbs are not my thing. I found this web site with carburetor information
http://www.mustangtek.com/4160/holley4160.html for the Fords.