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Hello and thank you for looking at my brothers 1967 Mustang with a 427 SOHC. We are not certified mechanics but enjoy working with our hands and trying new things. We are happy to share what we have done and hope to inspire you to finish your current projects or to help your buddy finish theirs.

We had installed a 427 Tunnel Port engine several years ago and now Terry has all the parts to assemble the SOHC 427 we now need to make room for those HEMI heads!

I had installed a Heidts Mustang II front suspension several years back  and had some complaints so we decided to try TCI’s Mustang II front suspension because I felt that they had addressed some of the complaints I had with Heidts like ball joint dust boots would expose the ball at different angles and outer wheel bearing turning on the spindle (NOTE: The bearing ended up being the disk brake rotor, not Heidts fault.) We purchased the TCI kit from Tim’s Hot Rods, very nice guy and a wealth of information.

So far I’m very happy with our choice with TCI so far.

The engine is still being built so this gives us time to make other changes.

Below we show adding a sump to the gas tank.

We used an Edelbrock fuel pump and secured it to  brackets that was welded to the gas tank. We made to the sump from scrap metal and purchased a AN-8 bung. We have 8-AN flex hose supplying the fuel pump and ½ aluminum tubing from the fuel pump to the engine compartment with a filter in between.

We have modified the factory Automatic shifter so it would stop on up shifts to 2nd and 3rd gears while racing.

Basically what we did was to weld a stop post for 2nd gear on the shifters original guide plate. For 3rd we made a top guide plate with one post that when the shifter button was fully pressed it would stop the shifter on 3rd gear then all you would have to do is release the button and enjoy the ride.

So 1st to 2nd all you do is push the shifter forward and it will stop on its own, now fully press the shifter button and push the shifter forward and it will stop on 3rd gear, now release and your done. We did this so the interior of the car looked some what factory and the floorboard would not be cut up due to aftermarket ratchet shifter.

Here is a gauge pod we made to move the tach off the steering column and the shift light and other gauges up for easy viewing. We made a mold of the shape we wanted and then heated some plastic and vacuum it over the mold. You can search vacuum mold on the internet to get more information.


Here is some pictures of the engine close to being finished. Hope to have engine on the test stand

Next week.

The the older gentleman is Earl Wade from Porter, TX.  He build the engine for Terry. Earl has worked on the SOHC 427 since the early 60’s and has a lot of experience with them.

10/24 and 10/25/09 the engine was ran on the test stand. 11/1 and 12/2/09 we installed the engine and transmission. This was a lot of work because we ended up lowering the suspension 2 inches to clear the power steering  and get the engine at the factory angle, FE engine. Well now I have headers, power steering brackets, and more to make before we can start up the engine.

Here are some pictures of the power steering pump, headers I made, and etc. This is the first set of headers I have ever made so don’t look to hard at the welds OK! My goal was to make them easy to remove, easy access to the starter, and able to remove the transmission with out removing the headers and I think I have done it. I know the performance will suffer but this is not a race car either. They are a tri Y design, this is why I had to connect cy lenders 5 to 7 and 6 to 8. Cylinders 7 and 8 fire one after another and can’t feed into the same Y.

I purchased a blank bracket when I purchased the power steering pump from KRC. With this it was easy to make a mounting bracket for the power steering pump to the timing chain cover.

I used to 11” fans in front of the radiator as pushers because I only has about an inch between the radiator and the water pump and just a little more between the power steering pump. So far this is keeping it cool (190 degrees) but it’s around 70 degrees outside so I will have to wait for summer to see how this works.

Well, it has taken me 2 and a half weeks to get to this point and three should finish it up. I have  worked on it ever day and am ready to drive it before it’s picked up by my brother. It has a nice sounding exhaust, very deep.

12/4/09 Lowered the car to stock height and added Centerline wheels  to the rear with Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Tires 255/60-15 in hope to add more weight to the rear and get some traction.

I removed the C5AF-9510-BU /BT (65 427 HiPerf Ford) carburetors because they had no power valves and could not adjust them for street. Remove these carburetors from the Tunnel port engine and made some adjustments and it runs great (Holley list 3301 C5AF-9510-BC/BD). I did replace the 8.5 power valve to 3.5 because this engine has a lower vacuum than the tunnel port. I’m sure someone else could have made the others work but carbs are not my thing. I found this web site with carburetor information http://www.mustangtek.com/4160/holley4160.html for the Fords.